How to Make Popcorn on the Stove

A bowl of popcorn made in a pan tastes noticeably better than most of what comes out of a paper bag, and it fills the kitchen with that unmistakable cinema smell before the opening titles have even started. It also gives you full control over the oil, the salt and whatever goes on top. All it takes is a pan with a lid, a few spoonfuls of oil and a few minutes of listening carefully.

The kit

• A heavy-based pan with a lid. A large saucepan or a deep pot works best. Thin pans develop hot spots that burn the first kernels before the rest have popped. A glass lid is handy because you can watch what is happening.
• Popcorn kernels. Plain, unflavoured ones. Store them in an airtight jar, because kernels that dry out pop poorly.
• An oil that copes with high heat. Neutral oils such as sunflower, rapeseed or groundnut are common choices; coconut oil gives a richer, more cinema-style flavour. Butter on its own burns too easily at this temperature, so save it for the end.
• Fine salt and a large bowl, warmed if you like.

How much to use

Popcorn expands enormously, so start small. A thin single layer of kernels across the bottom of the pan is the right amount; if they are piled up, they will not heat evenly. Use enough oil to coat the base generously, roughly enough that every kernel can sit in a little of it. Pan sizes vary, so after one batch you will know exactly what suits yours.

Step by step

1. Heat the oil with three kernels. Put the oil and three test kernels in the pan, cover and set it over medium to medium-high heat.
2. Wait for the pops. When all three test kernels have popped, the oil is at the right temperature. Lift them out.
3. Add the rest and rest the pan. Pour in the remaining kernels in a single layer, cover, and take the pan off the heat for about thirty seconds. This brings every kernel to nearly the same temperature, so they burst at roughly the same time instead of in stages.
4. Back on the heat. Return the pan to the hob. Within a short while the popping starts in earnest.
5. Shake gently. Every so often, hold the lid firmly and slide the pan back and forth across the burner. Keep the lid very slightly ajar if you can, so steam escapes; trapped steam makes popcorn chewy.
6. Listen for the slow-down. When the gaps between pops stretch to a couple of seconds, take the pan off the heat immediately and tip the popcorn into the bowl. Waiting for the very last kernel is how the batch burns.

Common problems and fixes

Toppings worth trying

Classic salted popcorn needs only a pinch of fine salt tossed through while it is still warm. Melted butter should go on in a thin drizzle while you toss the bowl, so it coats rather than soaks one patch. Beyond that, the options are wide:

• Savoury: smoked paprika, garlic powder, finely grated hard cheese, dried herbs or a dusting of nutritional yeast.
• Sweet: cinnamon and a little sugar, cocoa powder, or a light drizzle of melted chocolate left to set on a tray.
• Sweet and salty: a spoonful of honey or maple syrup warmed with butter, then salt on top.

Mix dry toppings in a small cup first, then sprinkle a little at a time while shaking the bowl. It spreads far more evenly than tipping it in all at once.

Safety around the hob

Hot oil deserves respect. Keep the handle turned inwards, use an oven glove when shaking, and lift the lid away from your face so escaping steam does not catch you. If the oil starts smoking before the test kernels pop, turn the heat down. Children love watching the lid rattle but should stay a step back from the stove. Whole popcorn and hard unpopped kernels are a choking risk for very young children, so follow the usual advice for little ones.

Making it part of the evening

Popcorn keeps for a few hours in a covered bowl, but it is at its best within the first half hour. If you are feeding a crowd, pop several smaller batches rather than overfilling one pan, and set out a few toppings so guests can flavour their own. For the rest of the plan, from invitations to seating, read our guide on how to host a movie night people remember.